How To Get Your Amaryllis to Bloom Again Next Year (it’s easy!)

I hope you’ve enjoyed your amaryllis this winter as much as we have! Their big, colorful blooms never fail to brighten up dreary winter days.

Unfortunatley, this is the time when most Amaryllis blooms fade away.




Most people think of Amaryllis as “disposable” and discard them after blooming.

But wait a minute!!!

I want to show you how easy it is to regrow Amaryllis year after year. The plants actually get better every year because every year the bulbs get bigger and produce more flower stems than the year before –  with even more flowers! And it’s sooo easy with hydroponics.



Amaryllis “Red Lion” from Home Depot after 2 years.



Grower Tip: If your amaryllis are in soil, now is a good time to transfer them to hydroponic growing. You’ll be glad you did! See more here.



Step 1 – After Blooms Have Faded




After all the blooms have faded, carefully cut the flower stalk all the way back to the top of the bulb. Be careful – don’t cut the leaves.




Your plant might look a little disheveled but no worries it’s ready to begin a new growing season for next year’s blooms.

Move your plant to a sunny window. Find the sunniest spot possible – you can’t over do it. Don’t wory about floppy leaves and repotting isn’t necessary    . . .    if you’re growing in LECA pebbles.

Start watering to 1/2 on gauge with a light dose of fertilizer.  Wait until system is completely dry before rewatering. I use and recommend Dyna-Gro “Grow” 7-9-5 or Orchid-Pro 8-9-6 at half strength (1/4 tsp per gallon).

Step 2 – When Spring Arrives – Move Plant Outdoors

When warm weather arrives move your plant outdoors. This is when it really gets a boost! Choose a spot that gets some sun but protect it from hot midday sun. Don’t worry if some leaves wither and die.

Proper setup for outdoor growing is important. If your setup is right, the bulb will practically take care of itself all summer. See for details. Simply substitute “amaryllis” for “orchid” in directions and you’ll be all set.

Leave the plant outdoors until temperatures drop into the high 40’s for a several nights. As the leaves turn brown cut them off. Your plant has stored up all the energy it needs to rebloom and it’s going dormant.

About a month before bringing it back indoors  start cutting back on water and fertlizer  – sometime around early September.  Water just enough to keep the plant from dehydrating – no fertlizer. Just pour water through pebbles until it runs out the bottom – then stop. No standing water at the base.

Step 3 – “Preparing” Bulb For a New Blooming Season

“Preparing” the bulb for a new blooming season is easy. Simply store it in a cool dark place (40-50 degrees if possible) for at least 6 weeks. Basements are perfect for this. I like to take the bulb out of its pot and store it in a paper bag tomake sure it’s not affected by light.

In a week or so, a new shoot will appear at the top of the bulb which means it’s waking up. Gradually increase the water to 1/4 on gauge and apply a “Bloom Formula” nutrient (Dyna-Gro Bloom 3-12-6 is a goood choice). In another 6 weeks (or so) your plant will start blooming all over again.

After the 6 week dormant period, repot the bulb into fresh pebbles and place it where it gets direct sun and warmer temperatures again. Moisture and sunlight will bring it back to life. Be careful with the water at first – pour water over the pebbes until the red indicator in the water gauge moves – then stop.




That’s it! I said it would be easy.




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